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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.